National Day and Darb Al Saai – the Way of the Messenger

This week marked Qatar’s National Day (December 18) and one of the associated activities was an event called Darb Al Saai – the Way of the Messenger. The founding father of the modern state of Qatar was Sheikh Jasim bin Mohammed bin Thani who ascended to power on December 18, 1878. He had previously led the Qataris who defeated the Ottomans in a battle at al Wajbah (which I think is the site of the palace of the Emir, just outside Doha) and then unified various tribes to create a single nation, which has become Qatar.

National Day was a very big event here. For days before, flags were put up everywhere and many thousands of flags were distributed throughout various venues in Doha. Tents went up all over the city, especially on the road that leads to Dukhan, which also passes Al Wajbah Palace. The tents are incredible .... huge brown and white striped tents that are placed in a U formation; they are open one side. In the “courtyard” are laid many oriental carpets and lots of big cushy armchairs ring the U. Generators, lights, heaters, and water tanks are all packed in as well. Tons of banners (all in Arabic, but I am assuming announcing loyalty to Qatar, the Emir, and the Heir Apparent) abounded. There were so many of them and I assume they all are gathering spots for specific tribes. These tents are also set up for the men’s parties for Qatari weddings. Because it is such a male-oriented tradition, I have been reluctant to stop and photograph them, but one of these days .... It is an incredible amount of work to set up and take down the tents, but it is done frequently. I am amazed that they are set up so close to the road, but they are just a few meters off the busy city roads. One night we drove home past the tents and there were hundreds of Toyota Land Cruisers parked willy nilly all around the tents. I got this pic of the Heir Apparent on his wedding day (note the tent) from a government website ...http://www.diwan.gov.qa/english/heir_apparent/ha_sub4.htm

National Day began with a large parade down at the Corniche, the street that runs parallel to the Gulf. We got a spot not too far from the main viewing stand, where all the royal family, ambassadors, and military hoi polloi were sitting. Near us were hundreds of Qatari school children ... most with their teachers, who had banners and flags and were so happy to be there. The street was lined with thousands of people and the excitement was really genuine. I was taken with this point, as so many people born here and identifying with this nation cannot become citizens. But they seemed truly proud to be here and seemed thankful for the good life they have.

The day was absolutely splendid and the parade started promptly at 9:30. There were soldiers on horseback and on camels. There were also all manner of military and civil defence groups ... who knew Qatar was so ably defended? Both the Emir and the Heir Apparent are graduates of Sandhurst, so I guess they are very militarily minded. Helicopters flew about and dozens of parachutists and parasailers floated down into the Gulf. There were flybys of all sorts of Mirage fighter planes and various different helicopters. Antique equipment and more modern equipment also went by, along with several groups of the Lekhwiya, which I think is the Internal Security Force. Army, navy, air force, coast guard, civil defence, swat team lookalikes ... very secure we are here in Qatar! Many of the participants had some traditional robes and were very resplendent ... I couldn’t figure out who got the robes and who didn’t.

I have to say one of my favourite parts was the marching band. They were great! Errol was particularly pleased to see 6 or 7 dhows go by under sail. He has always been very partial to them ... so beautiful!

The day ended with a huge fireworks display. We didn’t go to that, as driving down to the Corniche at night during the regular season is nuts; going on National Day would just be pure insanity. Also, we had our friends Lois and Dave over for dinner, as they were leaving for Turkey the next day. But by all accounts, the fireworks were amazing. I got this pic from http://aboutqatar.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/spectators-dazzled-by-spectacular-fireworks/.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/spectators-dazzled-by-spectacular-fireworks/

Now, back to Darb Al Saai ... when we read about it in the paper, it was described as camel training and dressage, so we thought it would be good to go and check it out.

It was a bit of a disappointment, as there were supposed to be 300 camels, but we only saw a few. The dressage was to ride the camels through tight spots, get them to sit and stand upon command, climb a hill, and pass two kinds of food without being tempted to stop. I had had visions of camels jumping over gates and water features, but they were considerably more grounded than that! There were some tents with Qatari people showing some traditional handicrafts ... weaving and perfume-making. There was a falcon exhibit and a collection of brass implements and a few swords. Everyone seemed very friendly but in fact there wasn’t a lot to see or do.

The culmination of the event was a poetry reading (which seems to be sung or chanted and has musical accompaniment) and then a trek to a place in the desert. In the time of Sheikh Jasim, it was not easy to get messages to people, so these camels and riders were a form of pony express. Going across the desert on camels was the only practical solution.

Although there wasn't a lot going on when we were there, still we were Although there wasn't a lot going on when we were there, still we were glad we went. I met a woman named Um Fahad who makes perfume and gave me a bit of information on oud, the incense and perfume that is so popular and important here. I didn’t understand everything she said, but did understand that certain scents and fragrances are for men and others are for women. I hope to learn more in the future.

We saw some very cute kids, and that is always a treat:-)