The Yemeni Honey Man

Well there’s this section of Doha that is so interesting. It is called the Karhaba District. We first went there shortly after I got here to go to a lovely Indian Restaurant called The Garden. Well we got lost and loster and then finally we found it. After several more attempts, we have learned to get to this district easily ... with only the occasional screw-up. The district is largely Indian-seeming and has narrow streets lined with shops selling fabric and sarees and jewellery and musical instruments and sweets and bread and honey. There is a little shop that sells Yemeni honey and it has become a favourite destination.

I was interested in Yemeni honey because the day before we went to Al Karhaba, I got a note from my friend Arlene about the virtues of Sidr honey from the mountains of Yemen and its amazing ability to fight infections, especially sinus and respiratory infections ... even killing MRSA bacteria – the superbug!

Sidr honey is pretty costly ... could be the most expensive honey in the world. It comes from the Hadramaut Mountains in the Southwestern Arabian Peninsula, where it is harvested only twice per year. The honey is from bees who feast only on the pollen of the Sidr tree. The Sidr tree is considered by many to be a holy tree and is one of the most resilient, ancient tree varieties in the area. In fact the newest large health facility here in Doha is called the Sidra Medical and Research Center. Sidr honey is reputed to have many medicinal benefits and has an unusually high level of antioxidants, as well as a rich, unforgettable taste.

So Mr Hussein Hytham Askar has tea, ginseng, honey, honeycomb, baskets and who-knows-what-else in his small shop on Al Karhaba. He is a very entertaining guy, who is likely to give you a high five or a very complicated handshake upon entering his shop. He will often have customers sitting near his desk, trying out different types of honey and he mixes special potions. He has at least two cell phones on the go and is always interspersing his various activities. One time I was in his store and he was mixing in a light powder about half and half with the honey for a man who had come in the shop. With some difficulty I was trying to figure out what he was mixing in and I thought it might be ginseng ... he laughed and laughed and said ... no .... for his fourth wife he needs ginseng ... right now, he has a cough! Finally we determined he was mixing in powdered ginger! Mr. Hussein really likes Errol and always compliments him on his Arabic. Yesterday we went and got a daughter discount ... he had us all in stitches. Today we went to Souq Waqif and met his son and little granddaughter Anoud.

Well we recently learned that the Karhaba District will start to be torn down, starting January 1. What a shame ... it is such a vibrant and interesting area and so full of life. Most of the Indian shopkeepers we spoke to the other day were not very happy and felt there was little compensation if any. One store, called Bombay Silk, which has the most beautiful fabrics and lovely sarees and shalwar kameez will be given nothing according to the owner. Some owners will be offered shops in the Souq Waqif, where their rents will be considerably higher. We feel very sorry for everyone concerned. And it is a densely populated area, with lots of small and inexpensive apartments, so of course there will be many people dislocated and needing to find other accommodation. On the weekends, the area is inundated with bachelors, who can get food from Kerala, Goa, Punjab – in fact, all parts of South Asia. So, where will they all go?

Mr Hussein may be better off ... he says he will be happy in Souq Waqif and there will be lots of parking. Who knows? We will miss Al Karhaba with its sights, sounds, smells, and vitality!

Information and Security ... Secure Information?

Reflecting on all the military might we saw during Qatar's National Day parade and tales of all the cameras at intersections and on highways, it occurred to me that Qatar is a pretty secure place. There are security guards everywhere; from my observation most of them are Nepali, or at least one company that employs mostly Nepali guards has the contract in many of the places that I frequent.
The other day, Errol and I went to the Aspire Center for a walk around the path. While there, I thought I would try and get some information about a concert by the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra and to inquire about swimming. Getting information about the orchestra has been particularly difficult, and I am not sure why that is. The inaugural concerts were sold out and while to be expected, the frustrating part was not knowing where or when tickets would be available. At any rate, I had heard that the orchestra was performing at the Aspire Center, but it is a huge facility with at least 10 buildings and so it was unclear where to go. The first few guards I asked had no clue and then I heard that the concerts are at the Women's Sports Hall.

So, I found the Sports Hall and parked in an open lot ... there were signs for VIP entrance and players entrance, but knowing my place, decided to go and check out the player (aka plebian) entrance. Leaving Errol in the car, off I went. Nobody was in the one building, so I figured I was in the wrong spot. I went to another building ... the window washers told me it was closed but I could go around to the other side and it was open there. On the other side I met a very nice Nepali woman who told me that it was the Ladies Sports Hall but just for basketball and volleyball. When I inquired about swimming, she pointed me toward the building I had just been to and said to go to the front. When I inquired about the orchestra, she said it was in the same building! Off I went to the other building, feeling only a little guilty that I had abandoned Errol for at least 20 minutes by that time.

My confidence in the information the Nepali guard in Women's Sports' Building One had given me increased immeasurably when I saw a guy with a big tuba having a smoke at a doorway. So I asked him about a concert and was told that there was going to be one. That night! And then a nice lady with a violin took me in to inquire about tickets and someone in the musical (and mostly German-speaking) group told me tickets were available at Virgin Music in Villagio Mall. Okay then. Off I went to get info about swimming.

At the front and opened door a nice Nepali security guard gave me information on the pool. I think the ladies' pool is not open for the moment and there is another pool, also not open this week, that is being used. Nobody was available to give information, but I think I will just wait until the New Year before continuing on with my information gathering. It's all quite exhausting.

By the time I got back to the car, I am sure half an hour had elapsed and Errol was half asleep. Just as I was getting in the car, another Nepali security guard came and told me that I couldn't park where I was parked and it was a problem. But in the end I was given a nice smile and off I went. I hope I didn't get a traffic violation.

At any rate, off we went to Virgin, got the tickets and went to the concert. It was lovely. A surprisingly large turnout considering I had looked online for information about the concert for days and never found any. I think most people learn about the concerts because they are friends of the musicians. Sheesh! The program was Wagner's Meistersinger from Nurmberg/ Prelude Act 1, Beethoven's Piano Concerto No 5 OP 73 in E-flat major (with Rudolf Buchbinder on piano), and Brahms' Sumphony No 4 OP 98 in E minor. We thoroughly enjoyed the performance and hope to learn more about future concerts with less sleuthing.

Finally, all the Nepali security guards remind me of some of the folks we have looking after us at UC-Q. Four of the regulars are from Nepal.

Danraj is from Buttwal and has just been in Qatrar for 3 months or so. He often is working in the gate and has got the biggest smile. It's a great way to enter the grounds, waving at him.

Prem, who is looking a bit serious, has been here the longest - 4 years. He is from Surunga, in Jhapa district. Prem seems a little quieter than the others and is maybe the leader of the group.

Rajesh, on the left, is from Lamjung District and he has just been here 3 months. He says he is really from Pokhara now, as that
is where his family has moved.

Bhojraj, to the right, has been here for 2 years and he hails from Pokhara. He tells me I must go to Pokhara when we are in Nepal, as there is a very important festival starting on the 28th. He just became a father in December 15. His wife is in Nepal.

They are so excited I am going to Nepal and have been trying (in vain) to teach me more than "Namaste". It's hopeless.

They are lovely young men and I have enjoyed getting to know them just a bit. So today's news about about some violence that is occurring in Nepal at newspapers is distressing ... all over the world Nepalis are keeping other people safe. I hope someone is looking out for them at home.

National Day and Darb Al Saai – the Way of the Messenger

This week marked Qatar’s National Day (December 18) and one of the associated activities was an event called Darb Al Saai – the Way of the Messenger. The founding father of the modern state of Qatar was Sheikh Jasim bin Mohammed bin Thani who ascended to power on December 18, 1878. He had previously led the Qataris who defeated the Ottomans in a battle at al Wajbah (which I think is the site of the palace of the Emir, just outside Doha) and then unified various tribes to create a single nation, which has become Qatar.

National Day was a very big event here. For days before, flags were put up everywhere and many thousands of flags were distributed throughout various venues in Doha. Tents went up all over the city, especially on the road that leads to Dukhan, which also passes Al Wajbah Palace. The tents are incredible .... huge brown and white striped tents that are placed in a U formation; they are open one side. In the “courtyard” are laid many oriental carpets and lots of big cushy armchairs ring the U. Generators, lights, heaters, and water tanks are all packed in as well. Tons of banners (all in Arabic, but I am assuming announcing loyalty to Qatar, the Emir, and the Heir Apparent) abounded. There were so many of them and I assume they all are gathering spots for specific tribes. These tents are also set up for the men’s parties for Qatari weddings. Because it is such a male-oriented tradition, I have been reluctant to stop and photograph them, but one of these days .... It is an incredible amount of work to set up and take down the tents, but it is done frequently. I am amazed that they are set up so close to the road, but they are just a few meters off the busy city roads. One night we drove home past the tents and there were hundreds of Toyota Land Cruisers parked willy nilly all around the tents. I got this pic of the Heir Apparent on his wedding day (note the tent) from a government website ...http://www.diwan.gov.qa/english/heir_apparent/ha_sub4.htm

National Day began with a large parade down at the Corniche, the street that runs parallel to the Gulf. We got a spot not too far from the main viewing stand, where all the royal family, ambassadors, and military hoi polloi were sitting. Near us were hundreds of Qatari school children ... most with their teachers, who had banners and flags and were so happy to be there. The street was lined with thousands of people and the excitement was really genuine. I was taken with this point, as so many people born here and identifying with this nation cannot become citizens. But they seemed truly proud to be here and seemed thankful for the good life they have.

The day was absolutely splendid and the parade started promptly at 9:30. There were soldiers on horseback and on camels. There were also all manner of military and civil defence groups ... who knew Qatar was so ably defended? Both the Emir and the Heir Apparent are graduates of Sandhurst, so I guess they are very militarily minded. Helicopters flew about and dozens of parachutists and parasailers floated down into the Gulf. There were flybys of all sorts of Mirage fighter planes and various different helicopters. Antique equipment and more modern equipment also went by, along with several groups of the Lekhwiya, which I think is the Internal Security Force. Army, navy, air force, coast guard, civil defence, swat team lookalikes ... very secure we are here in Qatar! Many of the participants had some traditional robes and were very resplendent ... I couldn’t figure out who got the robes and who didn’t.

I have to say one of my favourite parts was the marching band. They were great! Errol was particularly pleased to see 6 or 7 dhows go by under sail. He has always been very partial to them ... so beautiful!

The day ended with a huge fireworks display. We didn’t go to that, as driving down to the Corniche at night during the regular season is nuts; going on National Day would just be pure insanity. Also, we had our friends Lois and Dave over for dinner, as they were leaving for Turkey the next day. But by all accounts, the fireworks were amazing. I got this pic from http://aboutqatar.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/spectators-dazzled-by-spectacular-fireworks/.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/spectators-dazzled-by-spectacular-fireworks/

Now, back to Darb Al Saai ... when we read about it in the paper, it was described as camel training and dressage, so we thought it would be good to go and check it out.

It was a bit of a disappointment, as there were supposed to be 300 camels, but we only saw a few. The dressage was to ride the camels through tight spots, get them to sit and stand upon command, climb a hill, and pass two kinds of food without being tempted to stop. I had had visions of camels jumping over gates and water features, but they were considerably more grounded than that! There were some tents with Qatari people showing some traditional handicrafts ... weaving and perfume-making. There was a falcon exhibit and a collection of brass implements and a few swords. Everyone seemed very friendly but in fact there wasn’t a lot to see or do.

The culmination of the event was a poetry reading (which seems to be sung or chanted and has musical accompaniment) and then a trek to a place in the desert. In the time of Sheikh Jasim, it was not easy to get messages to people, so these camels and riders were a form of pony express. Going across the desert on camels was the only practical solution.

Although there wasn't a lot going on when we were there, still we were Although there wasn't a lot going on when we were there, still we were glad we went. I met a woman named Um Fahad who makes perfume and gave me a bit of information on oud, the incense and perfume that is so popular and important here. I didn’t understand everything she said, but did understand that certain scents and fragrances are for men and others are for women. I hope to learn more in the future.

We saw some very cute kids, and that is always a treat:-)

Freaking Out about Traffic Violations

Twelve of us at UC-Q worked the last 4 days and on the last day we went for lunch at Villagio, a nearby mall (complete with skating rink, canal and gondolas), Iman, who works in PR, remarked that she had to be careful parking, because if you park outside of the lines, you can get a fine. The newbies among us expressed scepticism, but then I remembered a colleague saying he had gotten almost $1,000 dollars in fines for speeding and parking violations. One major no-no is crossing the line at a traffic light ... if the camera catches you, it looks like you jumped the light, and that is a 6,000 QR (about $2,000 CAD) fine.





Chontelle, another colleague, told how she and her husband, James, were stopped at a light and were chatting and he let his foot off the brake just a tad ... enough to go over the line. Click ... the camera flashed. Startled, he backed up to get on the right side of the line and the camera flashed again. I think they will contest it. Considering how crazy the driving is here ... although legions say it is not as bad as Dubai or Kuwait ... the fines in the link above are simply amazing. At any rate, apparently you don’t even always know if you have violations until you go to return your rental or renew your licence. I had heard you might not be able to get an exit visa if there are fees outstanding and had visions of having to fork out thousands just to get on our plane to Nepal.

However there is an online service that will let you know. With bated breath I just checked and PHEW!!! No violations. I am very careful and really try to obey the rules, but there are some here that I just wouldn’t have even thought about ....

L'Eid On

What a great week we have had in Doha. We had heard there were horse races on Thursdays at the racetrack which is directly across Al Farousiya from the University of Calgary-Doha. (In fact there are no street addresses here ... for delivery purposes, UC-Q's address is Farousiya Street -across from horse racetrack)! Well, in fact it is much more than a racetrack; it is an equestrian center. It is enormous, for one thing. There are a couple of indoor arenas, an outdoor stadium for dressage and show events and a big racetrack with both grass and sand tracks. Apparently more than 700 horses are stabled there.

We got to the race track at around 4:30 and there was a show jumping competition ongoing. We got there just as the finalists in the junior class were competing. There were 7 or 8 finalists. The stands were not particularly full, but there were lots of family members and friends cheering on the competitors, who ranged from a Saudi princess, and Emirati sheikha, and a few other young people. It was interesting to note that the girls and boys competed together ... one of the few sports where that occurs ... the world over.

Of course, the horses were incredibly beautiful and the youngsters did great jobs on their jumps. I have only ever seen Ian Millar at the Olympics and Spruce Meadows, so it was a real treat to see a show in person. The leader right up until the end was a young Kuwaiti girl, but the last oir second-last rider just eclipsed her speed. The girl who came in third was from Great Britan. We talked to her mother later and she said they had been here 12 years, so at 14 and in her first juniors competition, she is more Qatari than British. Although when I heard her mother say "Well done, poppet!", it seemed pretty British to me:-)

After we saw that set we wandered over to the race track, where there was supposed to be the Doha Cup race. We saw the Thoroughbred Stakes race and it had a very exciting finish. The horses were all very keyed up, but so beautiful. One, Naked Ambition, was just a beautiful bronze colour and very unruly .... it took two people to walk it around the paddock ... but it came in third. I was rooting for it. There was another one that just wouldn't run ... I don't know if that is common, but the jockey didn't even mount the beastie until it was in the starting gate. People watching was great ... we wondered how many nationalities were represented there. Many I am sure.

The next day we went lunch at a little hole-in-the-wall joint (Summerland Restaurant) across Al Shamal Street (the Indy 500 Race Track) for lunch and it was really nice. The food was simple but good. But the real treat was that we dropped into a little supermarket beside the Summerland and we found patio furniture ... oh, yay! I have been looking all over for chairs to put outside now that we are in Villa 11 but couldn't find any. Now that the weather is so nice, we can sit outside on our new chairs. Very exciting.

Yesterday Dave and Lois and I were on a little magical mystery tour ... scoping out the best route to take them to the airport for their Christmas trip to Turkey ... and when we came back we thought we would look at the new Lulu Hypermarket which is going up in our vicinity. Dave and I were having a bit of a disagreement about how to get to it. However, it is easily reconized by its undulating roofline. So off we set in search of it ... however, it turned out to be a different building ... a new hospital. So then I showed hi9m where I thought it was and we did get there, but OMIGOODNESS ... we found the most incredible Sheikh's palace under construction. I thought it was a train station ... about the size of Union Station ... I will have to go back and take pics. He has a huge aviary for his falcons. My jaw is still agape.

Tomorrow we go back to work for 4 days ... I am sure it will be hard to adjust, but we are going to start off by going to College of the North Atlantic-Qatar for a workshop. Hope they have food:-) I am so shallow. I will take pics there, as it is an incredibly beautiful campus.

I will include some facebook links so you can see more pics if you like. Hope all is well with everyone who is reading this. Please drop a line if you feel so inclined.

Facebook Pics

Doors

Equestrian Center

Museum of Islamic Art

Forts and Ruins

Camel Racetrack
Aspire Center

Museum of Islamic Art

Wow. This is a wonderful museum. The architecture is amazing ... so many details have been thought of and attended to. I understand that this was the last major project for I.M. Pei ... who is now in his 90s! Really, it is like a sculpture. One of the very best things about going to the museum today was seeing all the families that were at the museum. I don't think there is another gallery like it ... I think the museum in Cairo has been closed for a while.

The collection is stunning ... we didn't see all of it by any means ... and it is exquisitely staged. So much to learn. I loved the ceramics and the pottery and there were several sets of doors that were incredible.

The light is so beautiful at this time of year. Really it has been the most beautiful month ... the air is wonderful; the skies are clearclearclear; and the temperature is just perfect. I look forward to visiting this museum often to see more of the collection and to take in the magnificant space.