Parker’s Visit

For the last year or so, my dear friend Parker has been telling me he was going to visit Vietnam. I didn’t really believe him after he backed out to go to Texas to train and participate in the Hotter ‘n Hell 100 bike marathon ( an endurance race that pits cyclists against the elements of the hot and windy Texas summer). After that he had a paper to write and then perhaps more training to recoup strength following arthroscopic knee surgery. Then I think he underwent shoulder surgery and laser eye surgery. I heard he had even gone so far as to ask about whether or not he could be included in clinical trials on metabolic changes experienced by tall thin vegetarian Southern-born gents over 65 ... really, I had my doubts that he would ever get here! It reminded me of Errol trying to get out of going to office Christmas parties. People would place bets on what body parts he was going to have operated on or replaced in order to avoid attending the party.

However, a few weeks ago, Parker started making noises like he really was intending to come and then quite a bit of correspondence about dates and flights and air miles and what do you know ... he arrived last weekend! Saturday night at 11 p.m. And I guess you could call this his Saigon Marathon ... he was here just 6 days.

Parker had been here with the US Marine Corps for 13 months in 1967-1968. In fact, when I met him at the University of Western Ontario (he was my Philosophy tutor) in 1969, he had not been out of the service that long. I think he was quite surprised that our friend, Patricia, and then I came here to teach. Over my year and a bit here, he has often remarked on how different our experiences have been. I (and others ) have encouraged him to come and visit - to see the way Vietnam has changed in the intervening years, as well as to meet the wonderful people who live here ... under different circumstances. I am so glad he came ... better late than never.

So, what a whirlwind visit ... on Day 1 we spent a bit of time in District 1, sightseeing, shopping, and setting up a couple of tours. For sure we had to go to Ben Thanh market for nước mía. Jet lag eventually set in and we headed back to District 7, Parker amazing at the traffic all the while. Day 2, while I went to work, Parker went to the Mekong. I had recommended a private guide and it turned out to be a great idea. He got lots of 1-1 conversation with his guide, could leave venues when he felt like it, got back in time to avoid the rainy-season deluge and was happily napping by the time I got home.

That night we went to a unique restaurant, Cục Gạch Quán, which serves Vietnamese country-style food. It is set in a lovely old villa and the architect has designed many nooks and crannies and stairs and various levels and little bridges over a fish pond. Patricia and I went there last Tết and we really enjoyed it then as well.

On Tuesday, Parker had a bit of a chance to explore Phu My Hung on foot and met me at RMIT and off we went to the airport for our trip to DaNang. Parker was stationed near DaNang when he was here in the 60’s and he wanted to see if we could find Hill 55. Luckily there were blogs online by folks who had made this trip before and we had some ideas on how to get there. After checking into the hotel, we went off in search of dinner. We must have walked the only 4 or 5 blocks in Vietnam with no restaurant, so we ducked into a pharmacy and asked for directions and/or a suggestion. The pharmacist and clerk and customer all conferred and decided where we should go, called a taxi, and gave our driver directions. This was very typical of our experience in DaNang. People were very, very courteous and so kind to us. We ended up at a lovely seaside restaurant where we had a nice meal and 333 (ba ba ba) beer with ice.

The next day I enquired about whether or not our hotel could recommend two xe om (motorbike taxi) drivers to take us to Hill 55. It turned out that a security guard on his day off and a buddy were available. Off we went at about 9 a.m. Hill 55 is about an hour out of DaNang ... it is a big area and I fear we only saw a part of it. Parker did not recognize much, as the hill was totally barrren when he was here, while now there are lots of trees and farms and rice paddies down by the river.

There are a couple of war memorials as well as many many cemeteries, one of which seemed to be a war cemetery. Despite the remnants and memories of war, it was an absolutely beautiful day and we both enjoyed being on the back of the bikes.

After riding around Hill 55 for a while, we decided to go to Marble Mountains, a group of 5 prominent hills near DaNang City, where until recently marble was quarried and sculpted. Now I think they bring the marble from further up north or from China.

Our drivers wanted to take us to the shops where they sell all manner of souvenirs and small marble goods, but we decided to go up Thuy Son to see the sights ... Buddhist shrines and caves. First let me say, the stairs are very steep and they are not a uniform height, so it is hard going for the short-legged among us. Throw in overweight and out-of-shape and you can imagine how huffing and puffing was I ...

However, I did make it to the level with 4 Buddhist Shrines and a lookout. We met a very nice monk who was keen to sell us bracelets and encourage us to make donations.

We walked around the back of that pagoda and found more steps straight up. At that point Parker and I parted. He went up into a cave that took him to the summit of the mountain. He apparently had a great view of the surrounding countryside and of China Beach, which is about a 30 km stretch of stunning beach near DaNang. I will have to take his word.

I went into a cave, Huyền Không, which was huge. It was just beautiful, with amazing light streaming in from a hole at the top of the cave. Apparently the large hole was caused by US bombs and the cave had been used as a field hospital by the Viet Cong during the war. The cave has a couple of stalagmites and a number of Buddhist statues and guardian figures. It was cool and quiet and absolutely lovely. It was hard to imagine all that might have occurred within that cave over the hundreds of years it has been used.

We met up with our drivers at the foot of the hill, both of us feeling wobbly in the legs. So we went back to our hotel.

We went along the beach road for part of the way, which made us both want to eat at a restaurant on the shore. So after paying our tour-guides-for-a-day, we hopped in a taxi and headed to the water. We got dropped off at a place called Mỹ Hạnh, which is a seafood restaurant, but they were happy to serve ăn chay (vegetarian) food. We stayed for a while, enjoying the late afternoon light. The entire wait staff was amazed by Parker’s binoculars, which made for a lot of fun. We walked down the beach road a while and marvelled at how the kids could play soccer and high school friends could just wade in the water of the beach in peace, in contrast to how it was 43 years ago. 

Finally we decided it was time to go to the airport. We were quite early, so we upgraded and got into Ho Chi Minh City a couple of hours early. What a trip! We were so fortunate that the weather was absolutely perfect and we were able to see everything (pretty much) that Parker wanted to see.

The next day, I trundled off to work and Parker met my Vietnamese teacher, Thuy, and a Vietnamese guide to go to Củ Chi tunnels. The tunnels are a huge network of tunnels that were immensely crucial to the Viet Cong as there were hundreds of miles of tunnels, with hospitals, storerooms, weapons caches, and so on. Most of the tunnels were protected by traps and spikes and other assorted devices. It must have been hell to be in those tunnels with the rats, snakes, bugs ... I hear malaria was a huge problem in the tunnels. I think Parker was very surprised to discover how influential they were. After that tour, Thuy took Parker to the Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum. What a day! He got home in time to get ready to go out for Thangksgiving dinner at my boss, Linh, and her husband, Casey’s place. There must have been about 30 or 40 people there ... many of whom were Vietnamese-American or Americans married to Vietnamese nationals. So it was a chance for Parker to meet some different folks. And the turkey was pretty good as well. It was a lovely gathering and a new experience for me, as I have not socialized with those folks before. Then off we went so Parker could pack and get ready to leave on a 6 a.m. flight.

I am sure by now you have twigged to the fact that this is only Day 5 and I already mentioned that he stayed 6 days ... well it’s all about the international date line and 6’s and 7’s ... let’s just say we got up at 2:15 a.m. so Parker could get a 3:15a.m. taxi to the airport so he could get a 6:00 a.m. flight for NOTHING! Yes, upon perusal, his ticket did say Nov 27 not 26 ... so back to bed. I was up at 6 to get ready for school she said in a very tiny voice. Hard day. Parker took his lumps with grace. He walked around Ph My Hung and shopped ... filled my fridge with milk and juice and beer and wine. And slept, the bugger. We went to the ever so fancy schmancy Cham Charm restaurant that evening and did the night time routine all over again. This time he really did go and I just received word he got back to Connecticut safely. Alhamdulillah!

So, whirlwind visit or no, I was very glad Parker came to Vietnam to visit. I enjoyed his company and I am sure I talked his ear off. I think we both find it hard to believe that we have been friends for 41 years. That is a very long time! Sometimes we go for quite a while without contact, but our friendship is an abiding one and very precious to me. What a gift the visit was, lightning or no!

More photos on Flickr at http://www.flickr.com/photos/raven_chick